Aug 16 - 23, around Quetzaltenago (Xela), Guatemala

I arrived in Guatemala from Tapachula, Mexico where I spent the night of the 16th. A taxi, lots of walking, 2 collectivo's, a coach and a chiken bus later, along with some help from a wondeful lady and her english speaking daughter later, I made it.
Early impressions of the Western Highlands were great. Riding on the bus winding high through lush green mountain ranges, dotted with coffee and corn plantations with the roads mostly occupied by school children working their way home along with an assortment of animals. My first chicken bus was quite an experience. For those who haven't had the pleasure - a "chicken bus" is basically a retro old US school bus painted in bright colours and packed beyond comprehension with people, animals, bags, producer and whatever else imaginable. The bus pulls up to whoever flags it down and quick smart, the driver's helper throws the new passengers luggage on the roof and gives them a split second to jump aboard before charging on down the road.

Chicken buses

My lack of spanish counted for nothing as many hand gestures and mimmicking got my point across as to where I was heading. All of a sudden my pack is on top of the bus and I am jammed between 2 large Guatemalan ladies wondering who the silly looking white guy is. Still, it was cheaper and more interesting than any other transport option.

Xela is a great little town. Ladies in traditional dress lug their children around on their back while men work dilligently in the fields. The chidren play in the street and I have never seen so many happy and content kids in my life. The town has a strong tourist industry with many adventure companies leading treks into the nearby volcanoes, along with spanish language schools and tourist type bars ensuring a steady flow of gringo's, however the town manages to avoid an overly "tourist feel" and keep its charm.

Mountain village

Local kids playing

My first few days were spent exploring the local region and getting my bearings. The first thing that struck me, after coming straight from Mexico, is the lack of hectic rush and craziness. Everyone here seems to be going at their own pace (aside from the bus drivers). Another quick observation is the relative level wealth in the area. In Mexico, there is always a distinct gap between the rich and the poor and it is evident everywhere. I don't get that feel so far in Guatemala. The people are so nice, welcoming and friendly.

Local lady

locals

My nbew friend Juan

On a day trip to a small village, I found myself sitting in a market squae snacking and snapping some photos when a local man came and sat with me. He just wanted to know who I was, where I was from and to practice some of his English. Although he was "working", he didn't seem to be in any great rush and 30 minutes was easily passed discussing life with my new friend Juan in broken Spanish and English.




Xela has a knack for making you feel at home immediately. I very quickly got to know the streets, the best (vegetarian) places to eat, familar faces in the street and some local lingo. I stumbled upon a local trekking tour company in the area who lead treks strickly for charity. http://www.quetzaltrekkers.com/ are a volunteer organisation who donate all their proceeds to local charities. As I was keen to summit the highest point in Central America anyway, I signed up for a weekend trek.

Base camp at 4,000m

All the way to 4,200m, mysef, along with my new friends from Germany and USA stumbled through rain, mud and a steady incline. My previous altitude record was 3,000m so it was a great experience to be amongst the clouds. Unfortunately the weather didn't agree and we had a true camping experience, setting up and taking down in the rain as well as summitting in almost gale force winds. The weather couldn't detract from the magic of the place though. Trekking up through small villages and watching men, women and children work in their fields and go about their local village lives.

Summit at 4,200m

The stumble down the mountain the following day was somewhat faster, although after a long and cold night, another 3 hours on a chicken bus were far from enjoyable. After a long hot shower and rest, it was time to plan for my next destination. I would take off the following day, with all my stuff on my back once more, for a one of Guatemala's natural jewels, Lago de Atitlan. A high altitude lakes, flanked by mayan villages, I have read and listened to stories about quaint little towns with many adventure options coupled with massage, meditation, yoga and general hippy retreats.

So off I go, next stop - San Marcos la lago, Lago de Atitlan.....