Lago de Atitlan, Guatemala. Aug 23 - 30

For some reason, the idea of multiple chicken buses after a weekend trekking wasn't awfully appealing to me, so I decided to splash out on a "luxury shuttle". Well not quite, but a mini van, rather than an old school bus was probably more appropriate for my tired body. Well, it turns out that the mini bus is neither more comfy, nor is it much quicker, but alas, I arrived lakeside in Panajachel in the driving rain as night rolled in. Onto a quick boat over to the idyllic lakeside town of San Marcos, I rolled into Hotel La Paz just in time for dinner by an open fire....

Boat ride across the lake

San Marcos is a beautiful little village, straddling picturesque Lago de Atitlan. Renowned for its massage treatments, meditation retreats, vegetarian restaurants and general hippy atmosphere, I think it was just right for me. It didn't take long before I was at the local hippy hangout being "healed" by crazy Dr Bill and his electromagnetic healing powers....some interesting people in this town to be sure. I cannot count the amount of times I heard "well, i came here for a few weeks vacation....that was 15 years ago....".

Plenty of ex pat's from around the globe now call San Marcos home and I could certainly see why. My planned 2 night stay turned into 5 as I wandered around town, visiting every cafe, relaxing lakeside, kayaking, exploring nearby villages and generally taking life pretty easy.

Ealry morning Volcano view from San Marcos dock

What I "did" all week is hard to quantify, unless you want a blow by blow description of every vegetarian place in town, but what I achieved was more pertinent.....complete relaxation! Not to mention meeting a group of interesting fella's who could quite possibly have changed my trip (see next post).

Stunning views of the lake

I can't be still forever though and as the weekend rolled around, I was greeted by a friend from Xela who would hang out with me for a few days around the lake.
We decided we better get out of San Marcos before it completely trapped us, so a bumpy tuk tuk ride later, we were off to Santiago on the other side of the lake, via San Pedro. Having to stop and get on a boat in San Pedro however proved difficult, we were convinced by a lovely local man that he had the best view in town from his hotel and was cheap (at $3 each, we couldn't really argue), so we followed him down a few beaten tracks and sure enough, his hotel did have a pretty awesome view!

Turns out he wasn't lying about the view...

Tuk Tuk'ing it around

 No point rushing onto another boat anyway, we thought, so stay we would.

Now, San Pedro is renowned as a hard partying, tourist part of the lake. Famous for its many bars and long drinking residents. However, the mayor has recently enacted a rule that all bars must close at 11 pm to stop all the trouble. That should keep us in check we thought.....well, tell that to Jose and his lovely wife who were the only ones selling beer after curfew along with their delicious taco's....surprisingly, we "forgot" the camera on this night!!!

Santiago

So with sore heads and weary eyes, we did eventually get to the boat dock and over to Santiago de Atitlan. Renowned as a more "work day" village on the lake, it provided a welcome respite to the gringo town of San Pedro. The highlight of my time in Santiago would have to be hanging out down by the local church and watching the villages go by their days, admiring the local

Santiago locals

men's traditional costume, long white shorts, complete with purple pin stripes, a big waist band and typically accompanied by a nice big cowboy hat. Everyone in the town was so lovely and friendly and helpful.

Often people ask me why I like to travel, why people travel etc....well I think it can be summed up by a little experience we had in Santiago. Sure, big mountains, volcanoes, lakes and nice food are all welcome experiences, but the true value is to be found in the people themselves. After buying a pair of hippy pants at a nearby market for $7, i quickly managed to split the arse of them (long story).
This kind of pleased me though, for I knew that it presented a great opportunity for a cultural experience. So after passing countless craft stalls on the way to our hotel, I knew that Santiago would present the perfect opportunity to get my new pants fixed. So in very bad Spanish, we managed to be directed from stall to stall
by local Mayan woman to someone who could "definitely repair pants". Pretty soon we were being rushed down an old alley by a group of overexcited young girls to their uncle who seemed to own the only sewing machine in town.

Overexcited but very helpful girls

"Is a patch ok.....yeah I can fix them, I need one hour" (translated). Happy as a pig in.....that I was going to have my new pants repaired, I asked how much the charge would be,. After great discussion with his wife, he agreed on 5 Quetzales....about 80 cents!!! The experience of hanging out with his family alone had been priceless and I would end up paying him a more suitable sum for his troubles.




So with pants fixed and bags packed, it was time to leave the lake. The words from my friend James who had visited a few years earlier were ringing loudly in my ear "be careful, 2 nights turned into 6 for me...." I parted ways with my friend who would return to Xela and boared a chicken bus for Antigua.

Next stop, the picturesque colonial town of Antigua, Guatemala....

Room with a view....

Even the cat's are chilled out on the lake

Local highland man traditional dress - Chichi market

Breakfast on the lake......tough times...

Aug 16 - 23, around Quetzaltenago (Xela), Guatemala

I arrived in Guatemala from Tapachula, Mexico where I spent the night of the 16th. A taxi, lots of walking, 2 collectivo's, a coach and a chiken bus later, along with some help from a wondeful lady and her english speaking daughter later, I made it.
Early impressions of the Western Highlands were great. Riding on the bus winding high through lush green mountain ranges, dotted with coffee and corn plantations with the roads mostly occupied by school children working their way home along with an assortment of animals. My first chicken bus was quite an experience. For those who haven't had the pleasure - a "chicken bus" is basically a retro old US school bus painted in bright colours and packed beyond comprehension with people, animals, bags, producer and whatever else imaginable. The bus pulls up to whoever flags it down and quick smart, the driver's helper throws the new passengers luggage on the roof and gives them a split second to jump aboard before charging on down the road.

Chicken buses

My lack of spanish counted for nothing as many hand gestures and mimmicking got my point across as to where I was heading. All of a sudden my pack is on top of the bus and I am jammed between 2 large Guatemalan ladies wondering who the silly looking white guy is. Still, it was cheaper and more interesting than any other transport option.

Xela is a great little town. Ladies in traditional dress lug their children around on their back while men work dilligently in the fields. The chidren play in the street and I have never seen so many happy and content kids in my life. The town has a strong tourist industry with many adventure companies leading treks into the nearby volcanoes, along with spanish language schools and tourist type bars ensuring a steady flow of gringo's, however the town manages to avoid an overly "tourist feel" and keep its charm.

Mountain village

Local kids playing

My first few days were spent exploring the local region and getting my bearings. The first thing that struck me, after coming straight from Mexico, is the lack of hectic rush and craziness. Everyone here seems to be going at their own pace (aside from the bus drivers). Another quick observation is the relative level wealth in the area. In Mexico, there is always a distinct gap between the rich and the poor and it is evident everywhere. I don't get that feel so far in Guatemala. The people are so nice, welcoming and friendly.

Local lady

locals

My nbew friend Juan

On a day trip to a small village, I found myself sitting in a market squae snacking and snapping some photos when a local man came and sat with me. He just wanted to know who I was, where I was from and to practice some of his English. Although he was "working", he didn't seem to be in any great rush and 30 minutes was easily passed discussing life with my new friend Juan in broken Spanish and English.




Xela has a knack for making you feel at home immediately. I very quickly got to know the streets, the best (vegetarian) places to eat, familar faces in the street and some local lingo. I stumbled upon a local trekking tour company in the area who lead treks strickly for charity. http://www.quetzaltrekkers.com/ are a volunteer organisation who donate all their proceeds to local charities. As I was keen to summit the highest point in Central America anyway, I signed up for a weekend trek.

Base camp at 4,000m

All the way to 4,200m, mysef, along with my new friends from Germany and USA stumbled through rain, mud and a steady incline. My previous altitude record was 3,000m so it was a great experience to be amongst the clouds. Unfortunately the weather didn't agree and we had a true camping experience, setting up and taking down in the rain as well as summitting in almost gale force winds. The weather couldn't detract from the magic of the place though. Trekking up through small villages and watching men, women and children work in their fields and go about their local village lives.

Summit at 4,200m

The stumble down the mountain the following day was somewhat faster, although after a long and cold night, another 3 hours on a chicken bus were far from enjoyable. After a long hot shower and rest, it was time to plan for my next destination. I would take off the following day, with all my stuff on my back once more, for a one of Guatemala's natural jewels, Lago de Atitlan. A high altitude lakes, flanked by mayan villages, I have read and listened to stories about quaint little towns with many adventure options coupled with massage, meditation, yoga and general hippy retreats.

So off I go, next stop - San Marcos la lago, Lago de Atitlan.....

Hola Mexico - July 25 - Aug 16, All over Mexico

Touchdown Mexico City.....and it is just as I remember it - crazy busy, insane traffic and raining. Well, I didn't come here for the weather but I did come to see my great friend Pamela. And there she was to greet me at the airport after I stumbled my way through Mexican customs. A beer and a taco later and it felt like the 18 months we hadn't seen each other for, was a mere 18 hours.

The next few weeks would be full of fun times with 3 of my best friends, Pamela, Marili and Oliver who would arrive from Estonia 2 days after me. The good times would have to wait though, as I spent the first 2 days by myself enjoying some well needed rest after Utah and also some catching up one "real world" activities.

July 28 - Aug 3.

After the grand arrival of the terrible twosome from Europe, we were straight off to Tuxtla, south of Mexico for Pamela's brother's wedding. Now, we all thought that a Mexican wedding would be a busy and fun experience, but I don't think I fully appreciated what a great production it was. The family home raced with make up artists, transporting alcohol to the venue, organising frocks and suits and general wedding mayhem. Oliver and I were honoured enough to be invited by the groom on his last night out before tying the knot. he stories from that evening are not quite appropriate for this family blog....

The wedding seemed to come and go very quickly, which is hard to believe given that the party ran all the way into the daylight hours. I was honoured and proud to be part of such a great family experience and share a great time with some great friends.

Lucky guy

Craig, Marili, Pam and Oliver

The happy bride and groom

A little "later" in the evening...

Exploring San cristobal and surrounds

Family photos

So with the wedding over, we were off back to Mexico City, nursing sore heads and heavy eyes. The next 2 weeks would consist of a variety of Mexican adventures. North first to visit Querataro and the local wine regions. The highlight of this region would have to be a little colonial town called San Miguel. Sloping streets, market vibes and cool little cafe's made this a great side day trip.

So after a nice little break from the hustle and bustle of Mexico City, it was time to return for the weekend while plotting our next adventure. One thing I will say about Mexico City - it is definitely not my favourite place in the world, but it sure is interesting. So many people crammed into one city, it is remarkable how people actually manage to get around and function. It seems the place just never stops. And trying to drive around.....that's an adventure of its own.

Safety precautions while driving in Mex City

So after a nice and somewhat relaxing weekend in the city involving going to some traditional mexican wrestling (think Nacho Libre with Jack Black except more full on) and exploring some quieter sides of the city, it was time to hit the road again - next stop, Veracruz on the East coast.

After a nice long drive from Mexico City (the majority of which was spent just getting OUT of the city), we rolled into Veracruz and were immediately greeted by some nice, hot weather. A city on the coast, it has all the trappings of coastal life, relaxed people, fresh seafood, warm water beaches and hot sunny weather. Now I am not one to complain about weather, except when the air conditioner is broken and you are trying to sleep in 33 degrees...obviously I have spent too much time away from Australia and my hot weather coping mechanisms are failing me! So aside from the weather and beautiful scenery, we were in town to visit an old friend who Marili and I studied with in France many moons ago, Alejandra. As always, it is great catching up with old friends, hearing about their new lives (and fiances) and generally catching up over a few cold beers and nice food.

Climbing up above Veracruz

Catching up over tequilas

So after a few days chilling out with friends, exploring some local sites and sweating int he hot sun, it was time to journey back to Mexico City and prepare for our weekend away to Acapulco. On the way though, we had to visit a little town called Jacamulco.....a quaint little riverside village famous for its river rafting. With no experience, very little clue and even less spanish, we managed to spend a few hours descending class 3 and 4 rapids with our new best friend, Raul, a great local guide who took good care of us. Unfortunately both Oliver and I didn't trust ourselves with our camera's so no pics :(

Back to Mexico City briefly and then off to Acapulco on the pacific coast for the weekend. Pam had done all the leg work and booked us a fantastic little house for the weekend. Lazing by the pool, on the beach and watching the famous cliff divers of Acapulco....it was a great way to spend the last weekend with friends. The weekend came and went fast and all of a sudden, our 3 week reunion had come to abrupt end. marili and Oliver were off home to Europe to continue working, Pam was staying in mexico in her job and I was about to jet off on my lonesome for Guatemala to see what I could find.

Next stop, Quetzaltenango, Guatemala.....

It begins.....July 9 - 25, Utah, USA

So the journey begins, well it DID begin - 6 weeks ago when I was supposed to start my blog, alas, I shall digress. Time for me to see some of the world I thought, so I upped and left my place of employment and current residence, beautiful Vancouver, Canada and embarked on a journey to find.....well anything really.

First stop - Moab, Utah, USA. 2 weeks of hot sun, intense mountain biking, thirst demanding running and idyllic, tranquil canoeing down the Green river beckoned. Myself, along with 2 willing combatants, Quiche and uncle Brian decided to come along and help me start my journey. They promised they would help deliver an unforgettable and challenging few weeks. And deliver it did.
We started off with 5 solid days of mountain biking. Up, down, around and sometimes face first - we raced around the awesomely intense, diverse and challenging slick rock and single track trails of Moab. Its amazing how hard you can ride when you rent $3,000 bikes. Covering between 4-5 hours every day in 38 plus degree heat, we really worked ourselves to our limit.

The pinnacle of the rides has to be our descent of porcupine rim trail. Shuttled up to over 10,000 feet, we descended 6,000 vertical feet over 34km through tight single track, wide and fast double track and some seriously hairy cliff side slick rock trail. 4 hours of stunning views, fast riding and at times - intense concentration to ensure we stayed upright. The trail dumped us out right at our campsites and I swear the beer has never tasted better.

edge of porcupine rim trail

Quiche showing off on porcupine rim

Porcupine Rim

Air Quiche

Playing in arches national park

Frollicking on slickrock

Moab is an intersting little town. Plonked in the middle of the desert, wedged between a few beautiful national parks, it really has a lot to offer the advenurous tourist. "Moab - where there is everything to do and nothing to do" and one local accurately and eloquently referred to his hometown.

After 5 days of morning's spent riding, followed by afternoon's spent eating and finding air conditioned refuges, (thank you City Market supermarket), we decided it was time to relax.....river style. 6 days floating in an improvised twin canoe style catamaran lovingly dubbed the "T - cat" seemed like just the tonic we needed.

"So - how much river experience do you have" says the tour operator.....this was followed by 3 very blank stares. I was pretty sure I went conoeing as a kid and Quiche and I did one overnight kayak last summer, so as far as we were concerned, we had this covered. What was the worst that can happen....."what do you mean there might be cougars about and rattle snakes....." oh well, off we went.

The 3 amigos

Can't beat the campsites

Quiche paddling hard....

Well I am glad to report that we descended the river without major incident. Well, except the fact that we packed far too little food and alcohol. The food we could understand, but really, too little alcohol? That was just silly. It seems that we were used to packing as light as possible for hiking trips and didn't factor in the fact that we could pretty much take limitless weight in a boat! Oh well - id did provide an outstanding opportunity to pass some river floating time with "what should we ration today" discussions.

All I can say is that we were all glad we saved the pancakes for the last day and equally impressed with our impromptu invention of a delicious desert "pineapple surprise" and "Quiches peaches". Basically a combination of all available sweet ingrdients including granola, pineapple, nutella, honey, peanut butter and whatever else we had left. *please note that photos are unavailable due to copyright issues*.



So float on we said and all had a great 6 days chilling riverside at serene and scenic campsites (albeit sometimes insect infested) cooling off in the river with beers, making Uncle Brain paddle while others slept or read and seeing who could come up with the most accurate resemblance of canyon rock. Its amazing how much imagination comes back when you don't have TV for a while. The canyons at sunrise and set were truly specatacular - a shade of red ever changing and providing a great backdrop for red wine, sitting by the campsite and discussing lifes most diverse and challenging issues....

Canyon sunset

All good things must come to end unfortunately and 6 days after eagerly pushing off, we were picked up by powerboat and briskly sent back the entire 160km we came in just 2 hours. 12 straight nights in a tent without so much as a hot shower or clean clothes and we were ready for an air conditioned hotel - and more than the odd cold beverage at the local brewery.
Long drive beckoned the next day all the way back to Salt Lake city where we would hang out for a few days and check out the local sites (the one good pub) and clean up, ready to part ways on our seperate adventures, myself to Mexico, Quiche and the Uncle off to Seattle for a few days of baseball and music festivals. A handshake and a hug later, i parted ways with my last connection to my home of the last 3 years and jetted off for my next adventure....bring on the tacos and tequilla.

Next stop, Mexico City....